Japan Pilgrimage October 21, 2026

 We checked out of the Shinapuri and got on the bus for Tsurugaoka Hachimangu in the samurai capital of Kamakura. This thousand year old shrine is home to the deity who protects the samurai class. Today however, its focus is more on academic and financial victory, rather than victory on the battlefield. We crossed a small bridge to one of the islets in Minamoto Pond where people were feeding the pigeons (actually rock doves). These pigeons are so habituated to people feeding them that they will stand on your arms and shoulders. Visitors were having a fun time posing for pictures with the pigeons, but I was getting Tippi Hedren flashbacks! 

The Main Hall at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu

We weren't the only tourists passing through the torii gate at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.

We also picked up some of the famous dove-shaped cookies to give as gifts, and to eat ourselves!

One interesting thing we were shown on the perimeter of the shrine was a small Dōgen Zenji monument. It was erected in 2002, 750 years after his death, and is inscribed with the Kanji for “Just Sit” - referring to the proper meditation technique. One special thing about the monument is the 16 steps, each inscribed with one of the 16 Buddhist precepts. 

Lunch was at nearby Kamakura Minemoto and I’d say that it was one of the best meals we had. It was light and flavorful, but still in the Buddhist vegetarian tradition. 

Our last stop of the trip was at the Kamakura Daibutsu - the second biggest Buddha statue in Japan. Of course the place was packed with tourists, but the weather had cleared and we got some really nice pictures. 

Finally it was time for our ride to Haneda Airport. The strong wind that had blown away the clouds made Sagami Bay ideal for windsurfing, and we watched many people taking advantage of it. We arrived at Haneda and checked in. I think that the amenities outside the security checkpoint are better than the amenities inside. It’s kind of opposite from Narita in that way. Inside we did however have access to the JAL Sakura lounge which was a nice and comfortable place to wait.

High wind and waves made for some wild wind surfing.

At the end of our visit to the Land of the Rising Sun, or in this case, a setting sun.

Climbing out of Haneda, Tokyo Tower, Rainbow Bridge, and Odaiba  are visible.

By the end of the trip, several of our companions had fallen ill, but we masked up and helped each other out. 

This trip was special because it gave us access to places that were the roots of our Soto Zen practice. We also had fellowship with both old friends and new. It was also special that our minister did a short service every morning on the bus, centering and reframing our minds for each day. I look forward to sharing memories from this journey with my sangha friends for many years to come. 

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